Michel Gros

If there is a red wine village in the Cote de Nuits which captures my love of fine red burgundy better than Vosne-Romanée, I haven’t encountered it as yet. Last year’s visit to Michel Gros, for barrrel tastings across the Cote de Nuits was an education and a pleasure. The domaine has holdings outside of Vosne, but of course their star wines include les reas, and aux brulees (which at times I feel strongly rivals many of the larger grand crus which surround it). But I was utterly taken with his more modestly priced fontaine saint martin haut cote de nuits, which I scooped up in the maximum quantity I was permitted and have shared with friends and family, receiving very positive feedback from all and sundry. The wine is very accessible young, and while not as precise or complex as many of the more elevated wines on offer – it is consistently pleasant. The village vosne (‘21) is all class and poise which will reward patience. The Aux Brulees has great promise with noble, balanced tannins and a finish for days. I recall dark berries, french oak inflected spice notes and the slightest suggestion of undergrowth which will become more pronounced with time. I’ve stored these at the rear of the cave, they will need time. My favourite Nuits-Saint Georges wines always come from Vosne producers, and Gros does not disappoint here. There is a rustic quality to Nuits vines, that to my mind, responds well to tempered Vosne elevage. Don’t overlook the other villages wines from this quintessentially Vosne domaine, there are few vines in the Cote de Nuits that don’t benefit from a little Vosne polish.